lisasho on the road

Todos Santos

One hour north of of Cabo San Lucas, Mexico lies the artist community of Todos Santos. It’s a sleepy little town on the Pacific side of the Baja peninsula, about 15 minutes inland on the foothills of the Sierra Laguna Mountains.

I recently took a day trip up there while vacationing with friends in Cabo. These days, it’s a rough drive, best done with a sturdy car and extra time. Construction to widen and improve the roads means long delays and crater-sized bumps, but it’s well worth the effort if only to get a dose of culture and peace in a region better known for drunk spring breakers and Hollywood elite.

Todos Santos was originally settled as the mission of Nuestra Señora del Pilar de La Paz in 1723. These days, it’s more of a settlement for artists and surfers attracted to the quiet, picturesque streets and nearby surf breaks. Tourists come to see old churches that line the town square and to buy handcrafted jewelry and artwork; I sheepishly admit that I wanted to check out the famous Hotel California (only to discover that it has no relationship to the Eagles’ eponymous hit).

The town reminded me of another artist community in Mexico, San Miguel de Allende, albeit on a much smaller scale and if possible, a bit more laid-back. Giant bougainvillea shade the numerous sidewalk cafes, where expats take breaks from running their art galleries and watch the handful of tourists wander around the town square. We pass an art class putting the finishing touches on a giant wall mosaic in honor of the new year, as well as a handful of foreigners standing in front of easels, squinting in the midday sun.

Despite the presence of so many foreigners, as well as the highway improvement that will ease access, one gets the impression that the locals -transplanted or not- are not about to let their community fall prey to the commercialization of Cabo. Although there are a few high-end boutique hotels and wine bars, there are just as many inexpensive taco stands and mini markets, and not once was I harassed to buy an ugly t-shirt or useless trinket (just a halfhearted “lady, check out my shop?” and a smile before the shopkeeper resumed his conversation with a friend). Sure, it’s the sort of place that elicits the typical “oh, you should’ve seen it years ago, it was SO much better” from jaded backpackers, but compared to most of the tourist traps I’ve seen in the world, Todos Santos is doing just fine.

-from surprisingly sunny but unfortunately bougainvillea-free Seattle, USA

Exploring Mexico

People often ask me what my favorite place in the world is, and my truthful (if slightly cop-out) answer is usually “wherever I am right now.” But if pressed to give a specific destination, there’s no other place I’d rather frequent than Mexico. It’s one of the world’s most culturally and ecologically diverse countries, easily accessible from the US, big and endlessly explorable (plus I speak the language fluently and can’t imagine ever tiring of beans and rice with guacamole, especially if it’s followed by a ripe papaya and a cold limonada).

I remember my first visit clearly. I was ten years old and squeezed into the backseat of a tiny rental car with my grandmother and sister, parents up front, air conditioning completely dead, everyone’s nerves on edge. We crossed the border into Tijuana and were instantly assaulted by chaos. Lines stretched seemingly for miles on the other side and waiting cars were overheating and pouring steam into the air that mixed with the dust to create a fog that you could cut with a knife. Street vendors peddling piñatas and giant hats bugged the tourists, while others sold fresh juices and slices of mango mixed with chile powder and salt to the locals. Once we got past the border madness, we found a dense, massive, polluted city that was both a major transit center and home for millions of the country’s both poor and wealthy citizens. It was unlike any place I had ever been and I couldn’t stop staring in amazement.

If I found dirty, grimy, harassed Tijuana fascinating, then I was truly hooked.

As an adult, I’ve tried to get down here at least once every two years, more so now that I need to escape gloomy Seattle winters. I’ve surfed Mexico’s Pacific coast and paddled about in its bathwater-warm Caribbean. I’ve explored ancient Maya ruins in the Yucatán and massive archeological museums in Mexico City, wandered through giant open-air markets, eaten myself silly everywhere and never once have I gotten bored.

Approximately three times the size of Texas, Mexico is made up of 31 sovereign states and a Federal District. Much like the United States, each state has its own culture, food, history and even climate, ranging from temperate in the north to tropical in the south, even snow in the mountains. It’s one of the most popular travel destinations in the world, but few American tourists seem to venture beyond the Vegas-style beach resorts of Cancún, Puerto Vallarta and Cabo San Lucas. Beachfront resorts do have their place, but if you’re looking to explore beyond the “one tequila, two tequila, three tequila, floor” mentality, here are a few of my favorite places to get you started:

Mexico City: The capital of Mexico and one of the world’s most populated cities. Its high altitude and (slowly improving) air quality are sometimes a challenge but if you can get past that, this is an amazing city, especially for foodies and art lovers. Many tourists stop here to visit nearby Teotihuacan and its Pyramid of the Sun and Pyramid of the Moon, but I think it’s well worth a visit for the massive National Anthropology museum (and its Museum of Modern Art, Fine Arts Palace, Frida Kahlo museum…) Once you’ve gotten your fill of museums, make your way to the Zócalo (main square) and people-watch before stuffing yourself in one of the city’s bazillion excellent restaurants (the New York Times keeps a pretty up-to-date list of great spots).

Tulúm: On the southern end of the Riviera Maya south of Cancún, this area is developing quickly but Tulúm still manages to retain a small-town feel. Grab a bus at Cancún International Airport (1-2 hours depending on traffic) and check into one of the numerous bungalows that line Tulúm beach, ranging from swanky yoga retreats to simple electricity-free thatched huts with a hammock and mosquito net. Tulúm’s big draw is the nearby Maya ruins perched on a seaside cliff; visit this archeological site early in the morning before the hordes of tourists (and heat) descend. Spend the rest of your time bobbing in the warm Caribbean and munching on ceviche and rent a bicycle for trips into town for supplies.

Guadalajara: Second-largest city in Mexico, located about four hours east of Puerto Vallarta. Heavily visited but not overwhelmingly so; though there are many, the tourists are definitely outnumbered by locals. The Mercado Libertad, one of the biggest (if not THE biggest) open-air markets in Latin America, is my favorite spot in the city for people-watching and just hanging out. Pay a bit more attention to your purse/wallet here. Catch a football (soccer) match at one of the city’s several stadiums, watch dueling mariachi bands in the Plaza de los Mariachis,  and try some good tequila, its eponymous birthplace only 40 miles to the northwest. Nearby Tlaquepaque is a mecca for pottery and handicrafts (and just fun to say out loud).

San Miguel de Allende: Originally an artist community, this Spanish colonial mountain town is now home to an enormous expat population. Although expensive and a bit out of the way (it’s a three hour drive northwest of Mexico City), this UNESCO World Heritage Site is well worth a visit just to see its exquisite doorways. It’s also a great place to take Spanish classes and buy artwork directly from the artist. Streets are cobbled and steep, so leave your high heels at home.

Playa Troncones: Still one of Mexico’s best-kept secrets, this surfer paradise is starting to get more attention from travelers looking for a quiet place to relax. Approximately 45 minutes north of Zihuatanejo on the Pacific coast, it’s a one-road town with a population of less than a thousand (although I’d never guess more than a couple hundred) and is about as sleepy as it gets. There are a handful of small inns and bungalows, but if you have a group, renting a house through VRBO from one of the many expat homeowners is a pretty economical option. Buy fresh fruit and veggies from the produce truck, delicious tacos from the stand across from Casa Delfin Sonriente (tell Maria I said hi) and grab some margaritas from El Burro Borracho on a Sunday night when the local high schools perform traditional dances. Don’t miss the several-times-a-week-or-when-we-feel-like-it sea turtle release from the sanctuary by Roberto’s Bistro, started by a local high school student concerned about sea turtle conservation. Troncones is currently my favorite place in the whole country but I’m admittedly biased: it’s where I got married.

There are several more amazing spots I’ve fallen in love with over the years, as well as places I’m dying to visit, such as Mérida and its nearby Uxmal ruins, the ruins of Palenque and nearby San Cristóbal de las Casas, Oaxaca City for its Día de Los Muertos celebration, the surf of Puerto Escondido, beautiful colonial Morelia, and someday, I’d even love to climb the 14,000 ft+ peaks of Pico de Orizaba, Iztaccihuati and La Malinche. If you have any favorite spots that you’re shocked I didn’t list, please send ‘em my way. Always looking to find hidden gems in this beautiful country!

-from Cabo San Lucas, Mexico

Small World

When I was 13 years old, my parents, sister and I were wandering around the Museo Nacional del Prado in Madrid, Spain, when I spotted my summer camp counselor from the States.

“Mom. I see someone I know over there.”

“No you don’t,” she responded, without looking away from a painting that had caught her eye. “We’re in Spain, for goodness’ sake.”

“No, really. I do. Look. MOM.”

Exasperated, she finally looked in the direction where I was pointing, only to see the young woman’s face light up in recognition. “Lisa! Is that you?” my favorite camp counselor from the previous summer shouted, rushing toward us and enveloping me in a hug as my mother’s jaw dropped.

I don’t know why she didn’t believe me, as it wasn’t the first time I ran into someone I knew while we were traveling. It’s not that I know THAT many people in the world. I just travel a lot and so it stands to reason that many of the people I choose to spend time with are also travelers and eventually, our paths would cross. I’ve run into acquaintances in New Zealand, friends of friends in Nepal, college buddies in Ecuador and even Peace Corps volunteers traveling through Zanzibar who had a crush on an old friend of mine who was serving with them in Cameroon, which we discovered over beers one night.

This morning, I was walking through our resort outside of Cabo San Lucas when I heard “Lisa!” from below me. There, waving, was a colleague from Seattle, neither of us aware that the other was in Mexico this week. Of course.

-loving this small planet in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico

Motivation

By the six month mark after my trip around the world, I had only added four new posts to this blog, despite having about 30 in various stages of completion waiting for their turn to be posted. I apologize to these poor things, these Neglected Posts, nearly every day as I go about my business, promising to get to them tomorrow. Then tomorrow comes and I apologize yet again. “Tomorrow is the day I write!”, I vow again. And then another tomorrow passes, and another, and at the end of each day I guiltily crawl into bed, avoiding the judgmental glare of my dusty, blank Tumblr from across the room.

I’m not usually the procrastinating type and frankly, with the 30 remaining posts about my trip around the world nearly finished, it’s not as if there’s that much work to be done. Plus, I like writing and what better subject than my love of travel, right? So what’s my problem? Why can’t I just get those poor little posts polished and queued?

Two days ago when I stepped off the airplane in San Jose del Cabo and my mind immediately began to swirl with story ideas, it finally dawned on me:

I need to actually be traveling to be motivated to write about travel. 

Well. All that guilt and it turns out that the only thing I was missing was a plane ticket. Should’ve known.

So, please accept my apologies for dropping off the face of the earth and join me as we explore the southern tip of Mexico’s Baja Peninsula this week. It’s warm here and the humpback whales are hanging out nearby. I think you’ll like it.

- From Cabo San Lucas, Mexico

Hiatus

Needed some time to process the trip and adjust to being home, but now I’m back and ready to share again. Thanks for hanging in there, readers.

Now, where were we? Iceland, I believe…